Preheat to 250°.
Line rimmed baking sheets with a double layer of foil, then set wire racks over foil.
Mix ½ tsp. baking soda, ½ tsp. garlic powder, 2 1/4 tsp. kosher salt, 1 tsp. black pepper, and 1 tsp. onion powder in a large bowl.
Pat chicken wings dry with paper towels and add to bowl with spice mixture. Toss with your hands or tongs until evenly coated.
Arrange wings single layer on prepared racks, spacing wings evenly apart. Don't crowd them!
Bake wings 25 minutes on two separate racks; they’re going to be pale but will begin to look dry, which is what you want.
Increase oven temperature to 500° and continue to bake, turning wings halfway through with tongs, until bubbly and golden, 25–30 minutes.
Allow wings to rest for 5 minutes so they cool slightly, which will allow the skin to crisp even more.
While wings bake, bring ½ cup hot sauce (preferably Frank's Red Hot), 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, and 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat.
Cook, swirling occasionally, until slightly reduced and thickened, 6–8 minutes.
Transfer wings to a large bowl, pour buffalo hot sauce over, and using tongs toss until evenly coated.
Arrange on a platter.
Serve with blue cheese dressing and a roll of paper towels!